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Previewing the collection at New York's Soho House on Tuesday, March 25, Garrigue said in designing the new collection, she opted for smaller, more elegant bags, most in square, rather than round, shapes. Illustrating her point, Garrigue pointed to a chic vintage-inspired square satchel bag with a long over-the-body strap.

"I say this is the bag I designed for myself," she said. "I'm so tired of the oversized hobos."

The collection echoes the more refined, subdued mood for fall – no oversized patent leather bags or shapeless hobo bags in loud colors here. Instead, Garrigue emphasized handcrafted details, like pleated or woven leather and soft folds, supple calf and goat skins and subtle hardware – leather covered rivets, for example, as a reference to the denim for which the brand is well-known.

The line features three different price tiers, with pieces like wallets starting at $75 all the way up to $1200 for their more elaborately detailed handbags in leather. For more casual everyday use, the range also includes bags in nylon or canvas

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Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens captured the mood with his autumn-winter collection for Nina Ricci, sending out artfully disheveled outfits in heirloom satins, velvets and silks.

Models ambled through a tent in the Tuileries gardens in deconstructed jackets over slim pants in rich shades of sienna, purple and gold.

Jacket shoulders were deliberately knocked back, while inset panels followed the body's natural curve.

"I wanted to approach each item in the collection like the ultimate standalone piece," Theyskens told reporters after the show.

For evening, he gave Empress Josephine a rock chick makeover, sending out Empire-line gowns in dusty flesh colors that split open in the back for a semi-undressed feel.